A Winter Swell


We all have that place. That home spot — or a “favourite” you wait for months, sometimes years. Because you know she only awakens under the right conditions, at that precise moment of the year. And when she does… you can’t afford to miss it.

For me, it’s this one. Mostly — but not only — the spot where I first learned to surf. My first steps, the first real winter swells. Back when it was still little known, shared by only a handful of us. Now it’s a bit busier — a natural evolution as surfing gains popularity in the Med — yet the spirit remains the same.

Who doesn’t love a soft, long wave? The regular footers beam with joy. And when it’s on, all the local longboarders gather: a session of pure expression, no contest, just riding, just gratitude. For those lines flowing in front of us.

On the shore, someone strums a guitar.
Someone else hands out a quick coffee brewed in the van.
Others share stories, laugh, and simply enjoy the moment.
… There’s something almost magical about the way the beach transforms into a living room, and the sea becomes a shared playground.

And just as I first learned to surf here, it feels like the perfect place to take my first shots from the water.
How ironic, right? Returning to the roots to try something completely new.

— Medlog